Author Archive for Chris Nitz – Page 4

Photography 101: The Lens Game

The hardest part of moving into the SLR/DSLR arena is what to get for a lens. There are so many choices, each crammed with numbers and abbreviations to cause more confusion than reading a Sun Tzu book. Let’s dive into what makes a lens a Fast Super Zoom Image Stabilized piece of work worthy of your money.

Wide-angle Lenses – These lenses take in great amounts of subject matter. Wide-angle lenses often come in the small millimeter ranges. Think anything from 1mm – 50mm. You may use a wide-angle lens to capture a vast amount of beachfront, or capture a whole city skyline. These lenses are also great for close-up shots in which you want to bring in a lot of surrounding details. Like a doorbell surrounded by grungy brickwork.

Standard Lenses – This lens type still takes in a vast amount of detail, but this amount is much less than a wide-angle. The focal length on these types of lenses often sits in the 50mm – 55mm range. Keep in mind that standard lenses are more a term you heard back in the film days, these lenses are still usable, and enjoyed, today.

Telephoto Lenses – Telephoto lenses are like having a small telescope mounted to your camera. These lenses usually start at the 70mm range and can work all the way up to a 1200mm lens that looks like a small cannon (ironically Cannon is the one that made this 1200mm beast). Telephoto lenses take in less subject matter, but are great for bringing far away objects up close. Many wildlife and sports photographers use this type of lenses.

Prime Lenses – Prime lenses are one set focal point lens. If you want a good workout, then this is the lens for you. A prime is often denoted by a simple focal length like 50mm. These are great lenses as they can provide super sharp, detail rich photos, but the focusing mechanism is your body. If you are willing to move around, these lenses are a great addition to your bag of gear. Read More→

Photography 101: What Is Your Photographic Voice?

I am going to venture down my road of experience once more. This time I am taking on a question that many people asked me when I was first walking down the road of photography. That one dreaded and ridiculously tough question is what is your voice?

When I first took up a camera, I was a happy man behind the lens. I took photos of everything and anything. Dogs, birds, plants, the ceiling, my toes, and whatever else I could finagle into my viewfinder all became my subjects. Then I decided I wanted to make a living of this, and the first question I received repeatedly was what my specialty/angle/voice was. To this question, I always answered, “ummm, good question.” So how did I finally come to answer this? It was not easy lemme tell ya.

The first part to finding your voice is to pinpoint the style of photography you like. Style is different from voice as style is the genre. Your style might be nature, animals, portraits, sports, architecture, or any of the other umpteen dozen styles that exist. For me, I found I really enjoyed macro, grunge, HDR, and landscapes. Keep in mind these don’t all really fit together as one cohesive style. I was able to finally pinpoint this by simply paying attention to the images I spent the most time gawking at. Read More→

Photography 101: How To Go From Good To Great

This week I am going to tackle a question that has plagued me ever since I turned away from fondling network cables in favor of a pushing a shutter button. That question has been, and probably always will be, how I go from good photos to great photos. While there is no simple answer to point you to and say do this, I have found a few things that have helped me get better in my chosen trade. Let us tackle this shall we?

Step one: Read
Yeah, everyone out there has this tip listed somewhere in the how to become a professional photographer handbook. There is a good reason though. When I decided to pursue my passion of photography, I had no idea what a rule of thirds was, or even how ISO and white balance factored into a photo. I just knew I liked to click a shutter button. It was not until I had a horrible stock submission experience that I realized I had a lot more to learn. Thus, I started reading about photography.

I did not just stop at reading all the technicalities of photography. I also read forums, photographer blogs, and anything else my greedy eyes could be graced with. There is a world of books and websites dedicated to the numbers and science behind photography. You should take all of that in. However, what no technical book is going to teach you is the inspiration. This is where reading photographer blogs really helped. I could see the shots professional photographers posted, enjoy the stories behind the shot, and learn what drove the photographer to capture the scene. This in turn taught me how to find my own inspiration.

Reading never ends by the way. I still pick up magazines, surf the net, and spend a good two or more hours a day reading photography related material. I pick up new tricks, find new inspirations, and even try my hand at styles that are not my own. This is all part of the growing, learning, and improving process. Read More→

Photography 101: Three Tips For Sharper Images

I received a question via a comment asking about how to get sharper images. I want to address that question now with a few tips that you can easily do without breaking the bank. Let us get on with the show!

1. Get stabilized
One easy way to get sharper images is to remove the human element from the camera. What I mean is you need to stop holding the camera. Camera shake can quickly kill sharpness, even with the best lens stabilization/vibration reduction systems. This is where so many photographers swear by good tripods. However, what do you do if you do not like having to lug a tripod everywhere you go?

I am one of those in hand, natural light shooters. I do not mind using a tripod; it is just not my preferred method of capturing images. I use my environment as my tripod. Find a flat rock, use a board, or even rest your camera on a rail. What you want to do is get as stable as you possibly can, while keeping yourself and gear safe. I will not recommend resting your camera on a rail, setting the self-timer, and running off. That is just asking for broken gear. What I will do is rest the camera body on a rail, while I hold it to take the photo. This removes my body sway, breathing, and some of my arm shake from the equation.

Another way to remove yourself is to use a remote. If your camera does not have a remote, use the self-timer. This setup is only enhanced when using a good tripod. You can get your camera into position, dial in your settings, and then trigger the shutter without ever having to hold the camera. Read More→

Photography 101: Consideration When Purchasing Your First DSLR

Have you been debating on investing in your first DSLR? Maybe you are ready to buy, but you have no idea where to start, or what to spend your mountains of cash on. No worries, this is a big step for many people. With a bit of planning, you can get a great DSLR setup that will help you grow in this wonderful world of photos. Let us look at just how you might want to consider your future shopping endeavor.

Budget setup
The first part to any shopping spree is figuring out a budget. You may think this is as easy as looking at your bank account, jotting down the remaining balance, and running off to the store. Before you speed off to the camera store to spend the remaining balance in your bank account, consider a few things that come with investing in a DSLR. The first thing you want to do is setup a camera budget. This is the amount you will spend on the camera and lens alone. A trick here is to budget a third of the amount for a camera, and the last two thirds on a lens. More on this later.

Outside of the camera budget, setup an accessory budget as well. Remember, the DSLR you are eyeing up may not take the same memory card as your point and shoot camera. Memory cards are relatively cheap in the grand scheme of things, but it is still an additional cost. You may also need to look at getting a sturdier tripod as a DSLR weighs quite a bit more than a point and shoot. Lastly, things like camera books, cleaning cloths, new filters, and even extra batteries need to be considered when deriving a budget.

One last piece of advice on budget setup, leave some wiggle room before you head off to the store. This will allow you to pick up something you may have forgotten to budget, like a new camera bag. The most important part of this budget is to set it up and stick to it. Remember, you will be adding to your gear as time goes on, so it is not necessary to try to grab everything in one trip. Read More→

Photography 101: ISO With A Side Of Light

We are finally onto the last, and hopefully easiest, part of the exposure triangle. By now, you have played with shutter speeds and fiddled with aperture settings. One last building block is still missing from all of this. That building block is your camera’s ISO setting.

ISO (or International Standards Organization) is how we control cameras sensitivity to light. This is the equivalent of film speed, but without the need to lug around six different rolls of film for shooting in various lighting conditions. I know that in prior articles I have used light and detail as interchangeable terms. For this article, light will stick to meaning brightness.

ISO has a wide range of values depending on your camera, what the manufacturer is capable of producing, and the demand for higher ISO settings. Common ISO numbers range from ISO 100 to ISO 6400, but these are just common settings and not the full gamut of ISO setting available on the market. What does this range have to do with you, and ultimately the exposure triangle? Well, quite a bit actually.

Let us say you set your camera to an ISO of 100. This is common for a fair amount of photographers when shooting in bright light, outdoors, and other brightly lit conditions. An ISO of 100 means your camera sensor is not super sensitive to light. Think of ISO 100 has having sunglasses on you camera sensor. It takes in light, but it is not sucking in copious amounts of light. Setting a low ISO means we can now use larger apertures, or slightly slower shutter speeds as we have the camera sensor set to a low light sensitivity.

An example for using a low ISO is shooting during the middle of the day while the sun is brightly shinning. There is so much light flooding your scene that you will want to take in detail before the light over exposes the scene. Setting an ISO of 100 makes it so the sensor does not become overwhelmed by light before the detail can take hold.

Example photo: This is shot in the late morning hours when the sun was bright. A low ISO allows for more detail to come through before the light causes over exposure:

Shutter: 1/180
Aperture: f/11
ISO: 200
White Balance: Daylight Preset

Read More→