Archive for City and Landscape Photography

In A Different Light – Behind My Eyes

Over the years of taking landscape photographs, it had grown on me that only the light just before sunrise and just after sunset were worth taking pictures in. Well, that and daylight where the clouds were plentiful enough to knock the harshness of the sun’s light down to a manageable level. A recent trip to Colorado convinced me that the high contrast light is not only acceptable, but even preferred for some images, especially when coming into the frame from the side, or, side light if you will. The mountains have a way of changing people don’t they? Let’s take a look.

Chimney Rock, Ridgway, CO

If you’ve ever seen the 1969 classic movie True Grit, you might recognize the mountain in the image above, Chimney Rock, as it was where one of the pivotal scenes in the movie was filmed. It’s part of the Cimarron Mountain Range just outside of Ridgway, CO. Just before sunset, we had some awesome cloud cover that was really mixing up the light coming from the sun at camera right. In this frame, the sun was behind one of the clouds, and, even though there is some contrast in the bright and dark sides of the mountain, it’s still pretty evenly lit and flat.  You can see from the tree tops in Deb’s Meadow below that the sun’s rays were still out, just not on the mountain at this time. Most of the time, this is a preferred light for me as it allows latitude in processing and the contrast level is pretty neutral and adjustable.

In this image, the sun is starting to light up the mountain face, but is still subdued. Definitely better than the first image, but there’s limited coverage across the entire face and the light on the trees has now lessoned. In the image below, the sun’s light has really illuminated the mountain’s face and the trees below it. The contrast in the light now also makes the shadows a bit darker, creating more definition and detail, as well as just making the image more moody and interesting. The edited, completed image is just below as well.

Fully edited image in Abode Lightroom Classic CC

So what have we learned? Contrast from the sun’s light can be our friend! Canon Explorer of Light Rick Sammon has a saying, “Light illuminates and shadows define.” This is especially the case for side lit compositions with texture. If the sun was located directly above the mountain, the light and contrast would be totally different, with much of the details in the face and back of the mountain being washed out because the shadows are no longer defining these areas. So both quality and direction of light is terribly important, especially with textures and detail. Let’s look at another example, this one from my home town of Lexington, TN.

Beech Lake, Lexington, TN

What drew me to this spot were the still colorful leaves on this sycamore tree and the bright orange grass surrounding it. Before sunrise, the lighting was flat – there was nice color on the horizon, but not anywhere around this tree and grass. After shooting in the mountains, my thoughts has changed enough to say, “Once the sun gets up above the trees to the east, it would illuminate the colors in the tree and grass and give more definition to the scene through contrast.” So I decided to wait on the light. This image was taken right after the sun made its first appearance, lighting only the far side of the lake. As you can see, it helped me to see, for the first time, the beautiful warm tones on the opposite side of the lake, but drew my eyes away from my subjects, which were still very flat.

About twenty minutes later, the light was starting to hit the sycamore tree and better define it and the colorful leaves. However, the grass in the foreground was still flat and dark as the light had not reached it. The image still looks awkward because of the lighting.

After a total of about 40 minutes, the sun had made its way all the way around to the grass. The contrast now seen in the tree and the grass have increased the definition and detail of both and allowed them to be front and center in the image. The light on the opposite bank has evened out, or lessoned in some areas, making a more secondary part of the image, along with the blue sky and water. The finished, edited image is below.

Up until this colorado trip, I’d stop shooting once the sun was above the trees, and when shooting directly into the sunlight, it likely will stay that way. However, if the sun can be used as a side light to better define and detail a composition, my shooting time will definitely be extended further into the morning, as they were in these situations. It may take some patience – I mean, it’s hard to control sunlight. And, in some cases, it may not work out. Most of our outings in Colorado did not produce these type of results due to clouds continually blocking out the sun and keeping the light from hitting the mountain peaks. We waited and waited, but it never worked with us. Fortunately, mountains tend to be photogenic, with or without direct sunlight (evidence below). It’s never too late to learn new tricks in producing the images that are right behind your eyes!

Mt. Sneffels off of County Rd 7 in Ridgway, CO

 

Scenic Outlook – 3 Easy Ways to Not Look Like an Amateur

Amateur (noun) – a person inexperienced or unskilled in a particular activity

I think we can all agree that the definition of amateur doesn’t exactly have the nicest ring to it. A lot of photographers out there do fit this description, which is perfectly fine or everyone with a camera would be doing this for a living. The trick is not letting other people know it. There are difficult methods for your images to look like a pro’s but also very easy ways to NOT look like an amateur. I have seen countless photographs of beautiful sweeping landscapes and majestic sunsets only to be ruined by the simplest (read: careless) mistake. The three things I am about to cover are major pet peeves of mine that will instantly drop an image from the ranks of great to mediocre. My goal is to have you think the same thing by the end of this article. Remember, our work doesn’t have to stand up to the likes of Ansel Adams, but it does have to be better than that guy snapping away with a disposable camera. These tips are easy and you CAN do this.

Straight horizons

Number one. Numero uno. The be all end all. I can probably go on for days how crucially important this is but I will spare you the diatribe. Just repeat after me: I will make sure my horizons are straight. Very good, you are already on the non-amateur path. My advice is simple; take your time composing and framing your shot. There is a simple approach I take every single time I compose a landscape image to make sure my horizon is straight. Get this right in camera and you won’t have to straighten and crop part of your scene later. If you are using a DSLR, place it in live view mode once it is secured to your tripod and enable grid lines if they aren’t already. Take your time adjusting the angle of the camera until the lines show a perfectly straight horizon. Remain in or cancel out of live view and snap your shot.

It was imperative that my horizon was straight for this image given that I was playing off of symmetrical reflections.

Dead center is dead boring

Being that we are already on the topic of straight horizons, lets keep the mojo going with another absolutely crucial non-amateurish tip: avoid centering your (now) perfectly straight horizon. Don’t get me wrong, there are times when a centered horizon will work, but for the most part that isn’t the case. When there is equal space above and below a horizon line, your eye wanders looking for a place to focus on in the frame. Our eyes are followers and need to be told visually where to go. As a general rule of thumb, if you want to emphasize a really dramatic sky, lower your horizon. If the foreground is the main point of interest and you are faced with a so-so sky, raise the horizon to the upper third portion of the frame.

The only reason this image works and has any impact is because the sky is dominating the frame. Your eye is led by the reflection in the water, to the sun, then traverses around the dramatic sky.

Dust it off

Step 3 in the non-amateur program: dirty sensors. It happens to the best of us. Well, actually, it happens to all of us. Sensor dust is part of the game whenever you are changing lenses and for the most part, it’s unavoidable. Dust spots will be the most present in the under exposed areas of your image, but they are easily abolished. The first thing I do when processing a photograph is look for dust spots. Sometimes I will spend 5-10 minutes making sure I took care of every single one because to me, a single blemish can ruin a photograph. Inspect your shot from every viewing angle on your monitor. Some spots are only visible from the sides or straight on. Then use content aware fill or a healing brush to rid your image of those nasty specks.

In order to maintain all the detail in the sky and silhouette the distant boats, I under exposed this shot. With that, dust spots were present throughout.

Congratulations! You have now completed the 3 step program. With some simple care and attention to detail, you can avoid the amateur tag and start taking your work to the next level.

 


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Jesse PafundiJesse Pafundi is a photographer hailing from Long Island, New York. A lover of all things photography, he enjoys traveling and capturing the world around him as much as possible. In addition to shooting landscapes, he has a major affection for New York City architecture and urban exploration. Whether it’s HDR, lens filters, or iPhoneography, he enjoys dabbling in and learning as many techniques as he can consume. Jesse believes strongly in the use of social media and blogging as a tool to further his knowledge and share his passion with anyone who wants to listen.

Photo Credit: © Jesse Pafundi

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A Brush of Warmth – Behind My Eyes

One of the latest additions to the last revisions of Lightroom and Aperture is somewhat of a game changer in my book, and that’s the ability to apply a white balance setting selectively. Being an Aperture user, I have not experienced how the Lightroom option works, but based on the many discussions and posts people made when version 4 came out, I’m guessing it’s quite good.

The latest update to Aperture included a few new options for white balance, such as three types pertaining to how you’d like for the temperature of a picture to be adjusted: Natural Gray (new), Skin Tone (new) and Temperature and Tint (previous standard). The two new additions allow you to use a brush to selectively apply the effect.

For most folks, the big reason for using this new tool is when you have competing light sources within the same picture, like having both incandescent and natural window light in the same image. You can shoot for one and apply the other in post, evening out the image. My first experience, however, was from more of a creative need. Let me show you.

The image below is an 8 second long exposure taken at the Mississippi River in St. Paul Park, MN. That’s the Blue Moon in the sky reflecting off of the river and some rather interesting tree roots sticking out from the bank. There were two things in the image I wanted to make standout, the great blue and magenta tones in the sky (and watert) and the gnarly roots on the bank. I started with the sky colors.

Original Image – f18, ISO100, 8s, 19mm

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A Photographer’s Diary, Springtime is Arriving

I love this time of year, the spring bulbs are all coming into flower, the grass is starting to grow again and the blossom starts to bloom on the trees. It does create a divided call on my time, between choosing to stay and work inside on courses and contacting companies, or nipping out when the sun is out to take some photos of the joys of spring.

Of course there isn’t really a decision to make; if I have the time I grab hold of my camera and head off to the countryside to take lots of photos. This last weekend I went back to a location I discovered last summer. I really just went back to explore it and make sure it was as beautiful as I remembered.

Whip Crack Away

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Scenic Outlook – Embrace Manual Mode

Modern cameras are truly wonderful devices, every time a new one comes out it’s seems to be packed with more and more cool stuff to temp you into parting with your cash. Of course many of these features can be quite useful in certain situations but for the most part a good proportion of functions will rarely be used. This is very true for the landscape photographer. Sturdy build, good glass, a decent viewfinder, a reliable light meter and the ability to alter the aperture and shutter speed separately is all it needs to do. The question of resolution/pixel count really comes down to what it is that you’re going to be doing with your images, and if you never print larger than A4, a 6MP DSLR will do the job just fine. 12MP seems to be a good amount for the majority of folks but even the lower end cameras are now offering more resolution than this; cool if you want huge prints or to aggressively crop your images, but most of us just won’t utilize the full resolution of our cameras.

So, your camera will come with a number of exposure modes; Program, Shutter priority, aperture priority, Auto, Manual and in addition to this there will be a selection of scene modes to choose from. I only ever use two of these modes; Aperture priority and Manual. Aperture priority is great in situations where you have to work fast; you get to choose the aperture and thus the depth of field, and the camera selects an appropriate shutter speed to get a good exposure, or at least what it deems to be a good exposure.

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Scenic Outlook – A Word on Lenses

I was having a thought to myself the other day about the types of lenses, or more specifically, the focal length of lenses that every Landscape photographer would think about having in their bag. So I’m going to briefly run through the things you might want to consider when packing your gear for a particular location. Also, this is not going to be about zooms vs primes, merely focal lengths and their effect on a scene.

Most people would think that the 18-50mm or 28-70mm (35mm equiv) would be a pretty safe bet to cover most situations, and they’d be right; in fact most of the pictures I take are within these focal ranges, so I would recommend that you keep something similar in your bag at all times.  Most people would also say that a super-wide angle lens in the range of 10-24mm would also be a good accessory to have in their bag. These are great when you want to go that extra mile to either a). Get more elements into the shot, or b). Exaggerate the perspective. When working with very wide angle lenses it is important to make sure that all the elements you are seeing with your eye are not lost when you’re looking through the view finder. Because the angle of view is much wider, the elements in the scene become much smaller, so make sure that the lovely rocky outcrop in the distance doesn’t become a bunch of pebbles you can barely see at all. When using these lenses be sure to compose your images with strong elements that lead the viewer  from the foreground to the middle and on into the distance.

(18mm Crop sensor)

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